An invitation that specifies "black tie" almost always raises the same question when you come to put your outfit together: which cufflinks should you wear with a dinner suit, and do you really have to wear them? The answer is yes, on one specific condition: a shirt with French cuffs. This detail of a few square centimetres makes the difference between properly executed formalwear and a dinner suit that strikes a false note.
In this guide, we set out the dress code rules, the right materials, how to put cufflinks on and the mistakes that give away someone unused to formal evenings.
Dinner Suit Cufflinks: The Black Tie Rules
Reading time: ~7 min
- Are cufflinks compulsory with a dinner suit?
- Which shirt to wear with a dinner suit, and why French cuffs
- Choosing dinner suit cufflinks by colour
- How to put on cufflinks, step by step
- Materials, formality and care: the reference table
- Matching your cufflinks to the rest of the outfit
- Common mistakes to avoid
- Key points before your next black tie event
- FAQ: dinner suit cufflinks
Are cufflinks compulsory with a dinner suit?
A dinner suit is not simply a dark suit that is a little dressier; it is a codified outfit that answers to the black tie dress code. In this sartorial grammar, the dress shirt is not designed to be fastened with buttons sewn onto the cuffs.
It is fastened with a pair of cufflinks, exactly like the White Tie shirt, the even more formal version reserved for grand ceremonies and state banquets. In other words, cufflinks are not an optional whim; they are an integral part of the outfit, just like the black bow tie and the silk stripe down the trousers.
This rule stems from the very construction of the shirt. Specialist guides, from Trendhim to BonneGueule, point out that the evening dress shirt has folded-back cuffs, pierced with holes and with no button sewn on. Without cufflinks, the cuff stays open, so you cannot improvise: you need to have your pair ready before the big day.
Can you wear cufflinks with an ordinary button-cuff shirt?
No, not directly. A business shirt with a single cuff has a sewn-on button and a single buttonhole; the system is not designed to take a metal post. Some shirts with so-called "convertible" cuffs allow both uses, but they remain a stopgap and are rarely up to the standard of formal dress.
Which shirt to wear with a dinner suit, and why French cuffs
The French cuff, also called a double cuff, is a cuff folded back on itself, giving four layers of fabric and four aligned holes. It is the only cuff genuinely designed for cufflinks, and it provides that firm, slightly rounded shape that shows about a centimetre beyond the jacket sleeve.
The white dress shirt is also recognisable by its bib, the central panel that is often pleated or made of cotton piqué, sometimes fastened with shirt studs. These studs are removable pieces that are inserted through eyelets from the back to the front. They are separate from cufflinks, which fasten only the cuffs, but ideally they should be chosen in the same material and finish so that the accessories work together. SuitSupply, like French houses such as Cinabre Paris or Fursac, offers both types of accessory side by side in its black tie collections.
So, before buying your pair, check three things on the shirt:
- Holes in both layers of the cuff
- Sleeves long enough to let the cuff show
- Whether or not there are eyelets for shirt studs
Choosing dinner suit cufflinks by colour
The rule is simple: the more formal the event, the more discreet the accessory should be. A dinner suit speaks for itself; the jewellery punctuates the silhouette rather than dominating it.
Black cufflinks
They remain the safest bet with a black dinner suit. Whether onyx, black enamel or lacquer, they create visual continuity with the silk lapels, the bow tie and the side stripe of the trousers. This is the black tie purist's choice.
Mother-of-pearl cufflinks
They bring a soft glow that plays off the white shirt. Often set in silver or gold, they are particularly well suited to weddings, galas and receptions where the outfit must stay formal without looking austere. For a black tie wedding, this is the most versatile recommendation, especially if the shirt studs match.
Silver and gold cufflinks
Silver designs work very well, provided you choose a matt or satin finish rather than very shiny chrome. Can you wear gold cufflinks with a black dinner suit? Yes, but with care. Gold is justified if it echoes another visible element: a dress watch, a signet ring or a wedding band. On the other hand, very flashy gold combined with silver accessories creates an immediately noticeable clash.
Coloured enamel and decorative stones
These can work with a midnight blue dinner suit, for example a deep blue enamel that picks up the tone of the cloth. Silk knot cufflinks, finally, belong to the smart-casual register and sit poorly with strict formal dress.
Good to know
Our designs are sorted by colour and by shape in the shop, which makes it easier to coordinate with a black or midnight blue dinner suit: browse by colour or by shape.
How to put on cufflinks, step by step
Once you have the knack, it takes less than thirty seconds. Unfold the French cuff completely, then fold it back on itself so that the four holes line up. Turn the decorative face towards the outside of the wrist, push the post through the four layers of fabric, then lock the fastening. Finally, check that the design is facing outwards: it is the detail people notice in evening photographs.
Which fastening systems should you choose?
How do you put on cufflinks with a toggle fastening? The rear bar swivels to line up with the post; you pass it through the holes, then turn it ninety degrees so that it holds the cuff in place.
The bullet-back fastening works on a similar principle, with a small oval weight that swivels. The chain-link style joins two identical faces with a link; it looks very traditional, but fitting it takes a little more dexterity. The fixed cufflink, made in one piece, requires you to slide the post through the four layers at an angle.
A practical tip: put your cufflinks on before slipping on the jacket, and opt for a toggle or bullet-back fastening for your first pair.
Materials, formality and care: the reference table
The choice of material determines both the level of formality and the lifespan of the pair. Sterling silver, an alloy that is 92.5 per cent silver, is tougher and holds its shape better than pure silver, as the Trendhim guide points out.
| Material | Level of formality | Recommended dinner suit | Care |
|---|---|---|---|
| Mother-of-pearl | Very high | Black and midnight blue | Soft cloth; avoid perfume and chemicals |
| Black enamel or onyx | Very high | Black | Dry cloth; avoid knocks |
| Sterling silver | High | Black and midnight blue | Occasional polishing against tarnish |
| Stainless steel | Medium to high | Midnight blue, smart outfits | Very little; resistant to tarnish |
| Gold or gold plate | High | Black, if other gold jewellery is worn | Soft cloth; avoid rubbing |
Matching your cufflinks to the rest of the outfit
Consistency of metals is the guiding principle of formal jewellery. Should your cufflinks match your watch? Ideally, yes. If you wear a steel dress watch and a white gold wedding band, stick to a silver pair or mother-of-pearl set in a cool-toned metal. The whole look should come across as a deliberate choice, not an accident.
With a black dinner suit, the safest combinations are black, white mother-of-pearl, understated silver and white gold. With a midnight blue dinner suit, cool tones enhance the depth of the cloth, and a dark blue enamel creates an elegant echo. The pocket square, in white linen or silk, should never match the bow tie, but it can gently complement the colour of the cufflinks.
The final arbiter remains the formality of the event. For an awards ceremony, a gala dinner or a formal wedding, restraint always wins. For a themed party or a more relaxed event, patterned designs can be justified, such as the golf or Star Wars collections, best kept for less codified outfits.
Common mistakes to avoid
Certain blunders crop up time and again at formal events and stand out immediately in photographs.
- Buying a pair without checking that the shirt actually has French cuffs
- Confusing cufflinks with shirt studs, then mismatching them
- Choosing a design that is too bulky for a fine cuff
- Mixing gold and silver with no common thread in the outfit
- Forgetting to turn the decorative face towards the outside of the wrist
- Setting off without a spare pair for an event that lasts all night
Remember
An understated pair in mother-of-pearl or matt silver, matching the shirt studs and worn with a white shirt with French cuffs, suits almost every black tie event.
Key points before your next black tie event
Dinner suit cufflinks are not an optional detail: they fasten the shirt and show respect for the dress code. Start with the shirt, then choose the material according to the level of formality, and finally coordinate with your watch and other jewellery.
At Une Autre Paire de Manches, you will find designs suited to these very occasions among our best sellers, new arrivals and gift sets, a popular gift idea before a wedding.
FAQ: dinner suit cufflinks
Should you change cufflinks for a White Tie outfit?
White Tie calls for a shirt with a cotton piqué bib and even stricter accessories, traditionally in white mother-of-pearl, sometimes set in gold. A black pair, perfectly suited to black tie, will look too dark there.
What should I do if I lose a cufflink during the evening?
Slip a second, simple pair into your jacket's inside pocket or your partner's handbag. Failing that, fold the cuff over and fasten it temporarily, but never leave the cuff open.
Is a monogram or engraving appropriate with a dinner suit?
Yes, as long as it stays discreet and is placed on the back or engraved into the surface. Fine engraving turns the pair into an heirloom, which explains why cufflinks are such a popular wedding gift.
How do you look after mother-of-pearl cufflinks?
Mother-of-pearl is an organic material that is sensitive to perfume, hairspray and household products. Wipe it with a soft cloth after each wear and store the pair in its case, away from damp.
Can you wear cufflinks with a business suit during the day?
Absolutely, as long as the shirt has French cuffs. Stainless steel, silk knot or patterned designs then work very well.