Why your build matters more than your size
Many men still choose their jackets by size alone (48, 50, 52 in European sizing, and so on), without considering their build. Yet two men of the same size can have completely different frames.
What counts is not the size but the way the jacket sits on your shoulders, chest and hips. A jacket that is too tight restricts your movement; one that is too loose spoils your silhouette.
A well-cut blazer brings out your natural lines and rebalances proportions. That is where choosing the cut becomes essential.
Common mistakes when buying a blazer
Among the most classic mistakes: insisting on a fitted jacket even when it doesn't suit your build. Or thinking a loose blazer is more comfortable, when it simply looks baggy.
Don't overlook technical points such as the armhole, the shoulder width or the sleeve length, which are often poorly judged.
A jacket that is too long makes you look shorter. A jacket that is too short draws attention to the hips. It is all about getting the proportions right.
Which cut for which build?
This is where it all comes together. Every build deserves a suitable cut:
- Athletic build (broad shoulders, defined waist): opt for a structured blazer with a slight waist. Watch out for the “too tight” effect.
- Slim build: favour fitted cuts that don't cling. Choose slightly heavier fabrics to add volume.
- Rounder or H-shaped build: choose a straight jacket, slightly longer, with little shoulder padding. Avoid cuts that are too fitted.
- Shorter or stocky build: a short blazer with narrow lapels will visually lengthen your torso.
The details that make all the difference
Here are the points you should never overlook:
- The shoulders: they should follow your natural line, without overhanging or pinching
- Sleeve length: about 1 cm of shirt cuff should show
- The middle button: it should sit at navel level
- The armhole: the higher it is, the cleaner the drape (without restricting you)
- The back vent: useful if you have wide hips or move around a lot
These technical details often make the difference between an average blazer and an impeccable one.
Bespoke, made-to-measure or off-the-peg?
It depends on your build, your budget and how demanding you are. Off-the-peg is ideal if you have a “standard” build, but allow for alterations.
Made-to-measure is a good compromise: a personalised cut based on an existing pattern.
A bespoke jacket is perfect for less common builds or for lovers of flawless finishing.
Bespoke is an investment, but for a blazer you will wear often, it can be well worth it.
